She’s the one…

I loved the nyonya kueh (cakes) and the nyonya chang (meat dumplings) sold at a stall in front of the shops along Green Road in Kuching. However, they were only open for business in the afternoon and more often than not, I would be taking the morning or noon flights home so usually, I would not be able to grab all the nice stuff from there to bring back and enjoy. Besides, this was not in the city centre so unless one had transport, one would just have to give it a miss.

After the delightful lunch at Peterson Corner and the refreshing ang tao peng that I had at Swee Kang on the day I arrived in Kuching, I headed to the place but the stalls were nowhere to be seen. I stopped to ask a man standing by the road and he said that Monday was the old lady’s off day. Yes, we would refer to her as Ah Mu, meaning old lady and that would differentiate her from the other stall where there was a younger lady selling more or less the same things but hers were not as nice.

That was why I had to go back there again the following day and I found the exact location of her stall – right in front of this shop (1.543629,110.332481) …

Chen Hong Green Road

…and the folding table for her stall would be chained to the pipes at the pillar once she knocked off for the day. If it is of any help, that shop is the second one on the extreme left of the rows of shops along Green Road, the first one being a coffee shop, not including the block where Goh Say Lak is which is located a little bit to the inside, a little further up on the left.

Soon after I got there, she and one man, probably the husband, arrived and started setting up her stall, taking everything from the car and displaying them on the table…

Old lady's stall

There was a mind-boggling array of delights, so many that one would face much difficulty in trying to decide what to buy. There was this colourful kao-teng koi (9-layer cake)…

Kao teng koi

…and you can see the bee pao bee (rice-wrapped rice) to the right.

I am not sure what these familiar-looking ones are…

Or koi

– probably or koi (yam cake) but I sure do know these chai koi

Chai koi

…only too well – the steamed kueh with vegetable (mostly sengkuang or mangkuang) filling wrapped in the thin translucent slightly-chewy skin. What draws the line between the boys and the men would be the texture of the skin – if it is tough or rubbery and difficult to bite and chew, that would be a double thumbs down. Of course, the filling must be nice as well and there must a reasonable amount of it in each of them.

I wish I could buy all but I just could not finish all of them in one sitting and I was afraid that they would not last the long drive home to Sibu the next day. That was why I only bought a packet of the tinggi salat/kueh salad aka the serimuka (RM3.00 per packet)…


…and it was so so so good! The layer of pulut (glutinous rice) at the bottom had a hint of saltiness to balance the sweetness of the green layer which was so lemak (rich with santan/coconut milk). Gosh!!! If only I could buy the whole tray back! I do think, however, that the ones I had before were slightly, but only slightly, nicer – I think I do recall it being a little bit more lemak than this at the time.

I did not see another favourite of mine – the kueh cangkeh (tea cup cake) which would have the same green layer on the top half and a brown layer at the bottom so I asked her and she said that being old, she could not stand making so many different types of kueh anymore. Sigh!!!

I bought two ang koo koi

ang koo koi

…as well and they were simply awesome with the absolutely perfect so-very-thin skin wrapped around a generous amount of the mung bean filling. If the timing is right the next time around, I certainly would want to buy a whole lot of those home!

Well, the only thing that I did buy to take home to Sibu were her nyonya chang

Nyonya chang 1

…RM4.00 each for the regular ones and RM5.00 each for the ones with or nee (sweet yam paste)…

Nyonya chang 2

…if I remember the prices correctly…

Nyonya chang 3

…and they were both so good!

There did not seem to be another stall anymore that day – probably the other one had given up in the face of such stiff competition from this old lady and incidentally, she did not seem as old and scruffy as before, if I can remember correctly. In fact, that day, I thought she was nice and friendly and was very well-dressed, make up and all, and her hair looked as if she had just been to the salon…so much so that I was wondering if this was the same Ah Mu that I knew before or her daughter who had grown older after all these years. Perhaps somebody in the know can enlighten me on this?

Author: suituapui

Ancient relic but very young at heart. Enjoys food and cooking...and travelling and being with friends.

24 thoughts on “She’s the one…”

  1. Everything looks so good. I wish there are some good ones here too but too bad I dont find any really good ones so far 😦

    Lulu is nice…enough, lemak enough but not so lemak but expensive.
    I know there are pretty good (and cheaper) ones at that popular coffee shop at Paramount…and there was a shop in the vicinity too. Never got to taste any nice ones in Malacca…nor Penang, probably because I do not know where to go.

  2. That yam cake is certainly colorful. How does it taste? It’s been a long time, since I’ve eaten food from a stall. So many food temptations, however did you choose? 🙂

    Sigh!!! I just had to go without most and pray that I would get the chance to go back there again soon to buy more to enjoy.

    The yam cake is savoury – there’s mashed yam with rice flour, I think…and bits of minced pork and dried prawns, steamed. On top is pounded dried prawns, I guess, with bits of chili and spring onions – look so pretty, like Christmas colours.

  3. Ah Mu or not Ah Mu, the kuehs are simply tempting!! I am sure they taste good then.. These are really authentic, hope the recipes will be passed down from generation to generation….

    That’s usually the sad thing. The young ones are not interested…or they carry on the business but the quality of everything drops drastically, people stop coming…and that’s the end of the road for them.

  4. I’m drooling for the nyonya changs. Their nyonya changs look so much like how my late mother used to make using the pandan leaves to wrap the rice. My mother would always used the bunga telang to give the rice a touch of blue.

    Yes, they do not use the bunga telang for the blue colour for the nyonya kuehs, not that I’ve noticed except here:
    They do use it for the rice for nasi kerabu and the uninitiated aka ignorant folks here would be horrified by the colour and insist it is colouring!

    Tinted nyonya chang, I got the ones from Malacca – nice also but not so cheap then (maybe even worse now) PLUS the lady at the shop was so snooty, wouldn’t want to go back and buy ever again. Some people really need to learn how to treat their customers right, we are the ones with the money!

    1. I always heard people praise her kueh and so far I have been there twice. I love the ang koo koi & serimuka too….but hate to venture into that part of the area with the heaviest traffic jam. Just wondering what is the fillings of the white kuih beside the ang koo, crushed peanuts or coconut.

      No idea. Usually either peanut or coconut. I would stick loyally to my ang koo koi, love the filling, lots of it! Traffic was ok, dunno if it was because of puasa month – generally, not much traffic even in the city centre like say, around 6-7 p.m.

    2. Must give this stall another try the next time I’m home-the Chang looks delicious…haven’t been there in years, best regards uncle Arthur to you and your family
      Btw was in malacca couple of weeks ago and the price of the Chang at the shop u mentioned is now rm7 each, doesn’t deter the customers though, long stream of orders, so much so that the proprietress seems even grumpier

      OMG!!! RM7.00!!! Aiyor…grumpier than ever? That face! If I had not gone all the way to Malacca and gone round and round in search of the place, one look at her face, I would not have walked out already. But after having gone through all that we went through, I thought I might as well just buy and try. 😦

  5. I know the shop but never buy any kuih there. All traditional Chinese kuih. Ok. Will try its chang some day. My dad’s workshop is just the right hand side on other end of the road.

    Yes, traditional Chinese/nyonya kuih and they do it so very well here – can’t get anything like it in Sibu, not even 10% as nice – all not worth buying here. 😦 Oh? You mean the other end, Pisang Road West side? If I am not mistaken, there are a few workshops around that area.

    1. Shell station and then the condominium. As you go along, his workshop is between a furniture shop and tyre shop. Near traffic light (where the turning to Pisang road).

      That’s the other side of the road then. Around Home Tyres, Covenient Car Servicing?

  6. I had some nice nonya chang in Katong, Singapore last month, but it did not have the blue markings. I am more a savouries than sweets person and would most certainly enjoy the chang and chai koi from the magnificent selection above.

    My brother, en route home from New Zealand, would buy those at Katong while on transit in Singapore to bring home. Nice too, and yes, none of the blue stains as well.

  7. Your vocabulary evokes hunger in me. I should come to the same place to try.

    Any nice ones in Miri? Have not heard of any good ones there.

  8. This is very new to me. 🙂

    You may get some at those dim sum aka yam cha places…or maybe in Chinatown, if it is the dumpling season. Different type though – these are not the same, the filling.

  9. I sure would have a hard time deciding. I get overwhelmed with too much choice.

    I think I’m ok, will just pick and choose and buy one or two pieces each. I know someone who would end up buying all, in amounts enough to feed the whole neighbourhood… LOL!!! 😀

  10. I love all those kueh! If I am ever in the presence of such delights, I will buy one of each 😀 I used to eat kao teng koi when I was small. I liked to eat it layer by layer.

    Yes, didn’t we all do that? Kids, all the same, eh? 😀

  11. nyonya kuihs are great … they always bring back positive memories of my childhood in malacca 😀

    I wonder where I can find good ones in Malacca – only know of this nyonya chang place. I am sure there are really good ones, really lemak ones that I do not know of. None here, only in Kuching. 😦

  12. If me, my eyes will be spoilt, buy and buy and eat…

    I saw somewhere…I think there is a stall selling stuff like these and much more…in Katong! I would want to drop by should I get the chance to hop over to Singapore.

All opinions expressed in my blog are solely my own, that is my prerogative - you may or may not agree, that is yours. To each his/her own. For food and other reviews, you may email me at

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